Historic Sojourn: Kythira’s living past and scenic castles

To escape the curse, we head to Piso Pigadi to explore the castle of Kato Chora. No curses here, we promise. This fortress flourished after the fall of Paleochora, even though it was built in the 14th century. Walking through the tall gates, you feel like you’re stepping back in time, as you explore the old village streets, its ruins, houses and beautifully restored Byzantine churches. The fortress was built by the Venetians to guard the island’s western shores from pirates. Our journey continues to a different form of history, that of a olive press in Mylopotamos. Olive oil production is fundamental to many parts of Greece, and Kythira is no exception.

 

The building that we will visit now functions as an organic herb shop, but the traditional olive press is still there and the shop’s herbalist, Sara, will tell you all about how it used to work. Now imagine a traditional Greek village square (“plateia”) dotted with shady plane trees underneath which stand tables of a local taverna. It is here that we will take our lunch break and savor local delicacies prepared by a mother-daughter team. Katina and Kalliopi will treat you to treats like “psomoladea”, the traditional salad of Kythira made with rusks made with the olive oil you just learned about, and slow oven-roasted wild goat in lemon sauce. After you’re palate and hunger are satisfied, it’s time to explore another Venetian castle in the Chora, that of Fortezza-Kastro, building 1504. We may have saved the best for last, but we will leave it up to you to decide.

 

Resting on top of a rocky plateau, the castle grounds are sheltered by walls of impressive height, canons that still stand, ruins, and restored churches. You can even spot the old prison and a large reservoir with parts of its domes and arches intact. Fortezza is also known as “The Eyes of Crete” as it looks at all three seas, the Ioanian, Aegean and Cretan. The murals and frescoes on the walls of the restored churches will astound you. As will the view from the top. We will then take a short stroll through the narrow streets of the Chora where we will also end our experience. But because no such experience should end without a glass of wine or ouzo, and that is exactly how we plan to end our time together. And in Greece, no glass of ouzo goes without a “meze” (appetizer or dish to share). Cheers!